UP CLOSE

THE TUARERS

The following "kids" made the Phuket - Padang Besar trip

Alauddin

Leader and Organizer. At 62, still a crazy horse. Ex Navy and now prefered dry land

Wendy

Alauddin's "faster" half. Loves the hills and will leave the men in her tail wind.

Goh

Mr Yul Brynner. At 62, the most muscular man of the group. Other "kids" got to do catch up with Uncle Goh

KC "Rambo" & Siew Peng

The love-birds. Sometimes seperated when KC Rambo rides fast upfront to photograph the Tuarers. KC loves sleeveless riding jerseys. Siew Peng loves to sunlotioned KC's arms and ....

Florence

A gutsy lady. No fancy panniers for her. Just a sports bag will do. Always in front, afraid that she would be left behind. The Tuarers' unofficial money changer

Recumbent Foo

The mechanic, and a very helpful one. Rides a recumbent, an easy rider. As easy as his life-style - easy going.

Fariz

The "baby" of the group at 32. At 6ft 2, he towers over everyone, especially....who else. Can smell an oil-palm factory several kilometres away

Suhaimi

The new kid on the tour. Now "regretting" every minute of his cycling -- regretting for starting late! Thinking of upgrading now. At 42, plenty of time to catch up.

ARZ

Last but not least. At 57, enjoyed touring, mostly solo but thoroughly enjoyed this group expedition. Looking forward for more. Unoffical blogger for group.

DAY 6 : HELLO PADANG BESAR

1st May 2007 : Pak Bara - Padang Besar

1st of May, the Labour Day. Did we realize how hard we had to labour on this final stretch home?

Today would be the final day of the journey. We would exit Thailand and head for Padang Besar to catch the evening train back to KL.


I woke up early. I had planned to cycle to the pier, to the end of Pak Bara. As I cycled out of the resort, I saw several early birds enjoying their morning walk and exercise at the concourse by the sea. Quite a number of sea-food stalls dotted the beach. I regretted for not exploring out last night for food. Operators of food stalls were beginning to prepare for the day's business as I cycled to the pier. They were all operated by ladies. Their men must still be sleeping at home.


The pier combined both as a ferry terminal and a fishing jetty. I noted many competing signages offering fast speed boats to the islands of Tarutao, Lanta, Lipeh and Libon for tourists. Koh (island) Tarutao is the biggest island in this part and could also be seen from Langkawi if one is around the Datai Bay area. There was also a huge boat that would take passengers to Koh Tarutao for Baht 1100 (RM110) return trip. Hei, that's almost the flight ticket KL-Phuket.

I have a made a personal jotting to visit Tarutao at another time, perhaps with my daughter on her return for holiday from Dublin. It could still be a cycling holiday, a real light and easy!

By the time I returned to Bara resort, the group were all ready, geared up for the final day cycling back to Malaysia, to cross the border at Wang Klian, a first time for me and also for the rest. My border crossing to/from Thailand had always been via Bukit Kayu Hitam into Sadao, onwards to Hatyai and beyond.

We breakfasted in Langu, after a short pleasant ride of 10kms. Decided on a Muslim stall (there were plenty) and literally "helped" to open the stall. We were the first customers. Our crowd of 10 must have attracted all the other people to the stall. Any discounts for bringing in the business?

We had our fill and soon continued towards another town, each turn of the pedal bringing us closer back to the Malaysian soil.

KC and wife Siew Peng were enjoying each others' companionship at the rear of the group. They stopped at several places to photograph each other and also to capture the scenes along the routes. While they captured the scenes, I captured them! Sometimes KC captured me too? (KC, where are photos of yours truly?) I was also at the rear, stopping often for subjects of interest.

KC & wife Siew Peng

At one point while spinning lightly with Alauddin, I made a U-turn to photograph this farmer taking his well-deserved afternoon rest in his hut. 2 dogs also enjoyed the afternoon siesta. The man and his dogs were not bothered with what I was doing - taking his pictures. I was more happier that the dogs didn't care less !




We arrived at a small town called Kg China for a short break. It turned out to be longer than expected break as the group had to wait for KC & Siew Peng. Siew Peng had another puncture. A man selling coconuts and air tebu benefited from Siew Peng's puncture too. I gulped down 1 coconut (drink), 2 plastic bags of the sweetest sugar-canes I had ever tasted and tapaued 1 bottle of it for the continuing journey to the border. I wasn't alone of-course.

From here, it was a 22km pleasant kampong road to the border. Several kilometres after, I stopped again. A bird-singing competition was on and a good crowd was there. I stopped for some shots but didn't have time to listen to the melodies of the birds. I actually wondered how the competion would be judged. But that's a thought for another day and time.

The road to the border passed through some rugged sceneries of jungles and hills. We passed A national park, Thaleban (?) National Park about a kilometre from the border. If not for the slightly distorted spelling, I would have cycled like mad to pass through!





It was quite a climb to get to this border post of WANG PRACHAN, 73kms from Pak Bara. We arrived at the border at 1:35 Malaysian Time. Nice to be nearer home. Wang Prachan is like any other border crossing. A market selling all kinds of fruits, clothings, home decors, souvenirs and the likes. On the Malaysian side, a huge building, the usual Arked MARA type stood devoid of any activities, a white elephant within a border outpost where elephants roamed its jungle.

2 Gentlemen & 3 Ladies

Alauddin, Goh, Siew Peng, Wendy, Florence

The 10 Tuarers at Wang Prachan Border Post

On this maiden ride, Suhaimi knew what to do. He bought several kgs of mangoes and oranges to bring home - his investment for his future ride! Little did he knew what lay ahead. Little did I knew what lay ahead too when I volunteered to carry 3 kgs of his investment!

After a short rest and some drinks, we journeyed on. The village of Kaki Bukit in Perlis awaited us ahead. It should be downhill, after all we would be cycling to Kaki Bukit, "the foot of a hill". So I thought. It was actually downhill, i.e. soon after the immigration clearance. Enjoy this, I told myself.


But I could not believe my eyes after just a few kilometres. The road angled up, and up, and up. Were we cycling to Kaki Bukit or Kepala Bukit? As we heaved and puffed, the road gradient kept angling towards the sky. My heart monitor read 172 bpm. Steady on, I affirmed myself. Change to a lighter gear and bring down the heart beat. Maintain 165 bpm....heck...the bicycle wobbled...6 kph on the speedo. No good. Push heart rate up, increase speed to steady the bike. Pedal light. This is tactical cycling. Once the bike stopped, I had to push. No way to get inertia to cycle once I stopped. Suhaimi, next time buy clothes to bring home, not 3 kgs of mangoes please :-)

Where's the peak. where's the peak? I was sure everyone was quietly asking this question. Very nice sceneries to capture but no way to stop.

Finally the Peak. We have reached the Kepala Bukit. Certainly it will be Kaki Bukit next. Silently I told myself :"It better be".

A great view. Ah....the reward on labour day, after a labourios climb. These scenes we must capture. Here they are.

From the Peak

KC coasting down to Kaki Bukit

One for the road. At the peak

We speeded down to Kaki Bukit, at a exhilarating speed. The brakes became a major component of safety. If the brakes broke, our elderly bones would surely be broken. Not to overheat the brake pads, I alternately used the front and rear brakes, at times both when trying to maintain a descent of below 60kph. No, I don't intend to break my own descending speed record of beyond 60kph. I have nothing to prove.

I noted, as we speeded down, that the gradient is steeper on the opposite direction. The heart would really be bursting if we had to cycle into Thailand. On this downhill, my heart rate dropped rapidly, beating even outside the EHR (exercising heart rate) range. Within a short time, we were on level ground at the foothill. The joy of the downhill ended so quickly. Time always flew fast on something we enjoyed doing!

Just after Kaki Bukit, a restaurant awaited. 12kms to our final cycling destination of Padang Besar railway station. 3 hours to spare before the train departed. Plenty of time. We waited for Recumbent Foo, who unfortunately, had to push his recumbent on the steep slope. Foo is a hard-core, so no big deal. He's also practical. If he has to fast-track, he fast-tracked just like what he did from Krabi to Trang.

A well-deserved lunch for some, well-deserved drinks for everyone. I made a call to my Malayan Railway friend, Gan, for the bike arrangement on the train. Kow tim!

I guessed we arrived at the station via the back entrance. A small opening with a notice "You Cross The Line At Your Risk" was displayed. I saw this sign many a times during my childhood days at the railway station in Tumpat, the "city" I was born in. No big deal. I have crossed these rail lines many a times in my childhood in Tumpat. Tumpat's railway station is big as it is the terminal. Should a train decided to venture beyond Tumpat station, it will land in the river mouth!

So I took the lead. I removed the panniers to lighten the bike and carried it across the line onto the platform. Others followed and soon we were rolling in to the comfort of the station. Then, it was bathing time, in the toilets. We took turn, guarding each others valuables. Fully refreshed, body fully talcumed and the timing was perfect. The train rolled in and a search for our coach began. Where's Coach 52? "No such number" said the guard. It was to be S2. At this tender age, S was read as 5!

Some of the Tuarers put their bikes in plastic bags, carried for this purpose, i.e. after dismantling the tyres and handles straightened. Pretty neat. I didn't have any plastic sheets and I had travelled with my bike before on this train for my earlier cycling trip with my son.

The coach was literally ours, and weren't we happy? Sure. Wishful thinking though. This was Padang Besar, the first station. There were going to be many more stations up ahead.

Goh & Wendy settling in

My exposed bike

Suhaimi getting into bed

Next train stop was Arau. The fun began. Families with little kids started streaming in to our coach. 10 of us got the bottom berth and the families would be on top of us. It's a joy to have children around, except when your body needed rest and a blissful sleep. The kid directly above me had strong vocal chords indeed and simply loved to display it. At any small disturbance by her active brother, she would wail. Look on the positive side, I told myself. Kids didn't snore when they slept. With nothing much to do, we settled in early. Closed the blinds and let the rocking train rocked us to sleep. It was bliss once the night grew older.

As I closed the blinds to my sleeping berth, it earmarked the end of another journey.

RIDE STATISTIC

Total Ride Time : 5 hrs 23 mins

Distance 98.4

Max Speed : 59.1 kph (downhill speed)

DAY 5 : PAK BARA

30th Apr : Trang - Pak Bara

We left Trang Hotel @ 0655, as usual early. Surprisingly this early and today being a Vesak Holiday, traffic was rather heavy. I have always found Trang to be busy and have poor road-signages relative to the other towns.

I recalled getting lost once in the town, couldn't find my way out to Krabi. I asked a teenager, "Krabi, Krabi" gesturing with my hand that I was not sure of the direction. He explained in Thai, also with plenty of hand signages. I got more confused. Realizing the failed conversation, he gave a hand signage asking me to wait. He disappeared and came back on a cub chai. He gestured me to follow him. He must have felt good - a 750cc tailing a 50cc cub chai. Several left and right turns later, he stopped. "Kelabi, Kelabi" pointing to the road ahead. That's Thai hospitality.

So again I said I never felt intimidated in Thailand. On this cycling trip, the only thing that pushed my heart rate to the maximum were the barking dogs. They just loved our sunburnt legs. Must have appeared like roasted bones to them!

Once out of town, we right turned at a junction where a "ship" hotel stood. I guessed the owner had made his fortunes in shipping and wanted to be remembered as a shipping magnate, even on land. However, judging from the condition of this "ship", it must have been sailing through rough winds and choppy seas. The Captain and its crew had since abandoned ship!

The abandoned ship

A fair part of the morning ride was in the cool shade of trees lining the road. However as the sun rose, the roads too opened up with less and less vegetation. It was getting hotter and when the road heated up, speed slowed down. And when speed slowed down, the brunt of the sun got worse. But it was all part of the journey.

As we headed further and further south, the presence of Muslim communities became more predominant.

We had lunch past 2 pm at a wet market in Thung Hwa. The wet market was clean, absence of any foul smells peculiar to wet markets. One of the men at the market spoke Malay, and hence ordering was made easier. Not that we ever had much problems ordering.

The Tuarers

The next stop for a drink was at Langu, 26kms after Thung Hwa but a mere 10kms to Pak Bara, our destination for the day.

As we approached Pak Bara, fresh sea breeze and a rewarding sight greeted us. It was a spontaneous decision for everyone to stop, to soak and breathed in the freshness of the sea breeze and for photo taking.

Photo session time at Pak Bara beach

Fariz & Suhaimi

While enjoying the cool weather, dark clouds were also forming. A slight drizzle ensued. By this time, a decision to stay at Bara Resort was already made, a Baht 440 a night.




We settled in well. Rain began pelting the rooms when we checked in. Dinner was at the resort itself and as usual, no other activities except to rest the tired bodies.

RIDE STATISTICS

Ride Time : 5 hrs 55 mins

Distance : 114.7 km

DAY 4 : TRANG (YET THERE WAS DARKNESS)

30th April 2007 (Krabi - Trang)


The longest ride will be today. Carbo loading before the ride was first on the agenda. We should fill the stomach first, unlike yesterday when breakfast was after a 30kms ride.


Before we rolled off, Suhaimi had another puncture. A second puncture for him. On this maiden ride, Suhaimi's learning curve is rather steep! My spare tube could not fit his sleek tyre. Luckily Fariz used the same tyre size and more importantly, had a spare to spare.

We set off, 9 Tuarers, slightly delayed from the promised time, as a result of the flat. Recumbent Foo decided to fast-track for this section. Today's ride would be the most exciting thus far - 137kms of road to grind. To add to the excitement, we could not find any halal stall when we stopped for lunch. And for lunch, we stopped at a petrol kiosk and welcomed the clean toilets. By the way, toilets in Thailand were clean. Malaysians must learn from our Thai counterparts - both as a user and as the owner (of toilets!)


While toilets were clean, there were no halal food at this stop. So I settled for instant noodle and soya bean to replenish the breakfast, rather light for the next 60kms ahead. By now, we had covered almost 80kms. The fast-tracked Recumbent Foo was nowhere in sight. Through SMS, Alauddin told us that Recumbent Foo was about 20kms ahead.


Side-tracking a bit, I had noticed and it gave me an impression that the Thais takes their weddings seriously. I had come across several shops elegantly displaying the wedding gowns. These views were not necessarily only in the towns, but along the roads and even in the smaller areas.


We must, of course gave credit to the Thais for their ingenuity and creativity and to a certain extent, the liberation of its traffic laws. I had travelled on Thai roads for many years, as far as the Burmese Border of Mae Sai. Inspite of the apparent lack of traffic enforcement, I had always felt safe.


Back on the road, the sky was threatening when we readied ourselves to continue the ride. We thus prepared for a wet ride. Rain covers on the panniers and the camera bag, but no rain coats for the body. Rain coats would be quite useless, and Tak Macho. The cheap ones would leave you sweating in the unbreathable material. Gore-tex materials would be ofcourse expensive.



It started to drizzle when when we rolled out. Wet patches from an earlier rain were evident on the road. Perhaps the rain had passed but dark clouds up ahead signalled a wet potential. Like children, the Tuarers will be playing in the rain, and enjoying the cool and cold ride.



About 20 kms after the lunch break, the dark clouds unleashed their reservoir and a heavy downpour greeted us. There was an initial uncertainty whether to seek shelter or to continue. I was glad the decision was to continue. So we ploughed on, literally. I wish I had a waterproof camera with me. The sight of the riders braving the rain would have been different than the sunny picures we had been taking. To add to the fun, we were climbing at one stretch in heavy rain and our speed were slowed down further by the rushing waters. With 2 climbing lanes for vehicles plus the generous bike lane, we had plenty of safety space between us and the climbing vehicles.



Siew Peng had a puncture in the rain. We found a shelter and husband Rambo KC did what he had to do for his beaut. Under the shed and the body not generating enough heat, the cold sets in. We were drenched to the bone (no la...actually to the skin)

At this puncture stop, we were only about 10 kms to our destination today, Trang. Well, we may be heading for Trang, but it sure was not bright and sunny!



With Siew Peng's bike done, we continued into the rain. We didn't realize that Siew Peng had another puncture not long after the first. The front group were in no time entering Trang town, heading towards the railway station, as advised by our Krabi friend Sufian. Both lodging and halal food could be found around the railway station area. I have overnighted in Trang once with my son Raqim and 3 other cyclists from Langkawi several years ago. Then, we cycled from Satun to Trang.



Passing by several Muslim stalls, the stomach juices started to churn. But first thing first. We looked for a hotel first. Looking back, first thing first should be, well, stomach first.


We stopped at the first hotel that came to our sight. Wendy, Florence and I checked out the rooms. Cheap rate at Baht 350 but with a price - smelly rooms. Wet and dirty as we were, we decided against it. So, Alauddin, Wendy, Florence and I voluntered to find another hotel. After cycling around the town for about 30 mins, we finally settled for Trang Hotel, Baht 530 twin-sharing.


I was feeling the bonk. So was Suhaimi, my room-mate. It was the longest ride, 137kms. It was the wettest. It was the coldest. Above all, it was the hungriest ride too! But again, first thing first. Clean up the wet mess of our panniers, hose down the body and cycling clothes of mud and soak in detergent.


That done, Fariz and Foo were also ready and fired up for food. Fariz suggested the murtabak stall he saw earlier. We didn't argue. We just walked to the place. However, too late for murtabak and too late to go to another place. Order what's available.

I can't help but noticed this rather confusing signboard across the road. I was wondering what business was this company really in. But then again, I recalled somwehere, "A business with no sign, is a sign of no business". This business owner had really stretched this concept far.

We headed back to the hotel after the late lunch-cum-dinner and never got out until tomorrow morning, for the trip to Ban Pak Bara

RIDE STATISTICS

Distance : 137.4 km

Ride Time : 5 hrs 20 mins

Average Speed : 21.2km/h

Maximum Speed : 47.8 km/h

Average Heart Rate : 129 bpm

DAY 3 : KRABI (ROCK CLIMBING HAVEN)

28th May 2007 : Pha Nga to Krabi

No. We didn't plan to climb any rocks. The only thing we would climb will be our bicycles. Oh yes, we would also climb the hilly terrains and then enjoy the fun of the downhill, just like kids. In my training seminars, I encouraged participants to have a child in them. I'm walking the talk and living the same dream.

Refreshed by a good rest the night before, we clocked decent speed and covered about 30kms before we stopped for breakfast. This is limestone country and we saw plenty of these along the route. Like Pha Nga, this is also James Bond country. Plenty of signboards with the 007 logo, inviting tourists to visit the James Bond Island.


At some points, there would always be shaded trees worthy of a stop. Wendy and Boh, two front cyclists at one stretch were just too happy to wait for the rest to catch up.







Recumbent Foo was just too happy for fellow cyclists to wait for him.





So was Alauddin




And when we stopped, friendly villagers would greet us. They would asked us in Thai and we would shake our head and smiled, "medai Thai". They will smile back. Smile after all is an international language. Everyone understands it. And its free.



Children.....ah children.....they would always be curious. Some would hailed us and offered their youthful smiles.



Some shy ones would hide and seek comfort, whatever that comfort and protection brings!




As we rolled in to Ao Lok, a great view of the massive limestone backdrop welcomed us. The 3 photographers KC, Recumbent Foo and yours truly stopped to capture the scenes. I have travelled this route before on my motorbike. I cannot recall this scenery. On a bicycle, the pace is much slower. So one absorbed more.

At the town, we had time for a short rest and more photo taking. The TM cyclist Suhaimi posed one for the road.

So did I.

20 kms before Krabi, there was a long gentle climb. Wide roads and generous road shoulders for us mere mortals. We enjoyed the huff and puff as we made our way to the top. For every uphill, there will be a downhill. And where there is a peak reached, a reward sometimes awaited us.

Getting into Krabi, the stomach was calling for food. Found a Halal shop though choices were limited as it was way past lunch. The owner, Sufian spoke good Malay. With his spoken Malay, he made several hundred bahts for Florence and the gang to tour Ao Nang beach. Later that night, he offered to carry all 10 of us in his Hilux SUV for seafood dinner at the river mouth. Can't see much of the river in the dark, but the mouths were ready for seafood.

RIDE STATISTICS

Total Ride Time : 4 hrs 44 mins

Distance : 93 km

Average Speed : 19.6 km/hr

Max Speed : 43.1 km/hr

Max Heart Rate : 172 bpm (chased by dog)

DAY 2 : PHA NGA (JAMES BOND)

27th April 2007 : Phuket - Pha Nga


Today we cycled to James Bond island. Well, not exactly to the island but to Pha Nga, famed for the James Bond movie which was shot around Phi Phi Island, which is off Pha Nga. James Bond (Sean Connery) himself would have forgotten. But not the locals. Huge billboards dotted the route to lure tourists to visit the James Bond Island.


Leaving the hotel early, James Bond was least on our mind. Food was on the agenda. The route, led by Recumbent Foo passed the periphery of Phuket Airport before meeting the trunk road. After about 10kms heading towards the Sarasin Bridge that connects Phuket to the mainland, we stopped at a Muslim foodstall. The choice - rice but variety of dishes. We settled in to do our carbo-loading. On a wall was a poster. Raihan, Malaysia's nasyid group will be in town. One of Raihan's song, Demi Masa is always on my MP3 - as a gentle reminder of our final destination.

Owner of the foodstall hailed from Pattani and spoke Thai Malay. We managed to ask for direction via the coastal road that would lead us to the Sarasin Bridge. This village route was treelined and offered good shade. Villagers were unhurriedly going about their daily chores, peaceful and minus the pollution. 3 kids were playing by the roadside and gave me some friendly smiles. Young, beautiful and innocent.

Taking this route, we passed through Tsunami country. We came across a Tsunami cemetry. KC, Siew Peng and I rode in a bit to see the grim reminders of the devastation of the Tsunami of Dec 2005. Felt a little bit eerie and quiet. Wreaths hung along 2 wooden walls to the graveyard. There were also numerous Tsunami Evacuation signboards, pointing to directions where villagers can flee to, for safety. We hope this will not be necessary at all in the future.

Recumbent Foo also led us into a 5 star resort and Spa operated by Sheraton, but there was no through road to the beach. So we continued our ride and stopped for photography sessions on the Sarasin Bridge. Two Mat Salleh lady cyclists stopped for a chat and helped took the group photograph. Uncle Boh asked me to ask one of the cyclists where she bought her Phuket cycling club jersey. I was wondering whether Uncle Boh was really interested in the jersey!

ARZ, Suhaimi, Boh, Siew Peng, Wendy, Alauddin, Florence, Recumbent Foo, Fariz

KC (aka Rambo -sitting)

Roads in Thailand have wide lanes for cycling. It is certainly safer to cycle in Thailand than back home. Weather though was equally hot. The group stopped at a hardware shop for Boh to buy a clip for his rack. It became a rest stop. Everyone welcomed the idea of this stop for some rest, shades and drinks.

Today, being a Friday, we passed by a mosque with Muslims going for the Friday prayers. A tinge of guilt for missing today's Friday prayers. On a journey, we accumulate. So we pasang niat for Jamak akhir.

Another stop at a stall selling live crabs and live siput sedut, initially for re-grouping since by now the stronger cyclists were quite up ahead. We saw some coconuts and so, coconut water quenched our thirst. Sadly, the coconut flesh was more suitable for curry. This stop was 15kms before Pha Nga, today's destination.

Alauddin led us into Pha Nga and we headed for a Muslim shop in town. The owner welcomed us with lots of smile. She sure can make a killing with these 10 hungry Tuarers. During lunch, we were cooled by the rain.

I made a note to visit this "Food Safety Street" tonight for dinner.

We checked in to Luk Muang Hotel for Baht 500 twin-sharing.

RIDE STATISTICS

Distance : 71.5 km

Total Ride Time : 3 hrs 57mins

Av Speed 18.1 km

Max Speed 40.7 km