DAY 10 - FREE-WHEELING DOWN (ALMOST) TO WATANSOPENG

Wednesday 14th Jan 2009

Good-bye Pare Pare. The hotel in Pare Pare, Hotel Parewisata was the most decent one up to this point, best value for money and for the first time, a proper buffet breakfast with choices, all for IR160,000.

The first part of the journey took us to Barru 47kms away, driving along the coastal areas. Occasionally we could see the sea on our right. Branching left at Barru, we headed for Watansopeng. As we changed direction moving into the interior, a mountain range loomed infront of us. The road gradually climbed as indicated on the map. From the coastal gradient between 100 - 200 m above sea level (asl), the road climbed to reach the peak of between 1000 - 2000 m asl. In the comfort of the Van, it was no sweat! The dark orange portion in the map is the highest point ranging between 1000 - 2000 metres asl.

I was monitoring the altitude from my Polar watch as the road climbed. Hatim was monitoring the gear of the van. As long as the van climbed on 3rd gear, the gradient was cyclable. The road gently snaked upwards until about 6kms to the peak when it had to go on 2nd gear.

From a distance, we could see what looked liked waterfalls cascading the mountain sides. We stopped at a small village offering some beautiful landscape. A dog barked continously at us, probably telling us visitors hardly stopped here.

Here, the air was fresh and the wind blew a gentle cool breeze. A waterfall fed fresh mountain water to the terraced padi-fields. The pace of life here is much slower and much more relaxed.

The mountain slopes are all steep and moss-covered.

As we stopped further up to photograph more waterfalls, we chatted up a group of locals. They said this was the final peak and it would be downhill all the way to Watansopeng? Downhill?

Almost instantaneously, Acid and I decided to unpack our bikes from the van. After 2 days of not cycling, the butt is itching to be on the saddle.

We quickly re-assembled our bikes, attracting the few locals that we chatted with. A few helpful hands from the locals helped us, including a policeman. We could not refuse their hospitality though we could easily assembled the bikes ourselves.

One group photo and off we go. The cool breeze in our face as the bikes gathered speed downhill was just the tonic to pep up 2 days of inactive touring.

After several kilometres, Hatim must be feeling envious of our downhill. The van overtook us. I can see in his eyes the "pleading" to share this childlike abandon. I readily give in to his request. The moment he took over the wheel, I mean the handle, he was off and I was back in the Van!

Even the stray dog on the road gave way.

The joy registered in Hatims' face .......as he sped downhill

The final pose as he gladly handed back the bike to me, i.e after reaching the flats...ha..ha..

Back home two weeks later, this is what has become of the very reluctant cyclist. Welcome brudder Hatim, to the joy and health of cycling.

When we reached the foothill, the riped golden color of the pafi-fields greeted us. Again a must stop to photograph the harvesting.

Happy with his re-introduction to cycling, Hatim took this shot of a happy harvester. Harvest time is always a happy time. I experienced this in 2007 when I toured the Minangkabau region in Danau Maninjau, Padang In Sumatera.

The farmers were laughing and talking as the three of us were busy capturing their activities. Some asked the usual questions when they see folks on bicycles.

One can feel the vibrance of the moment. The lady in this photo was just too happy to be photographed as she seperated the husk from padi in the wind.


This woman was carrying padi to be delivered for weighing. The load on her head would convert to hard-earned rupiahs to feed the family.

Horses were also used to carry the bags of padi. I can't help noting the bottle of mineral water carried on the horse. A similarity with cyclists having their water bottles on their bikes!

We stopped at Bamboo Kuning Cafe for a combo of late lunch-cum-early dinner. It's a food outlet by the roadside, open air with the padifields surrounding the cafe. Nice ambience but I guessed we were too hungry and none of us remembered to photograph the cafe.

We were then roughly 10kms from Watansopeng. We cycled on unhurriedly as we entered the town of Watansopeng, we were greeted by this statue of a farmer and his wife.

We could not find a hotel with 2 rooms for the 4 of us and we decided to split hotels but later at night met up at an internet cafe. Finally at last, an internet cafe.

I did my first posting in Sulawesi here, a brief report. Hatim was also checking his mails while Acid was fascinated with this motorbike. Acid still has a soft spot for motorcycles.

4 CANGKIR 1 GUNUNG

You will be wondering about the above caption. For a start, Hatim tasted its goodness. He became a local guy and enjoyed sharing conversation with the locals, together with Acid.

They were both enjoying tea and asked me, to have a go too. I am never a lover of tea (with milk) but I gave in and ordered.

Very quickly I ordered another one. Teh susu never felt this good before. When the lady served the second helping, we got to ask her the recipe. We gave a smile and we swore to her that we are Malaysians and therefore will not open another cafe here in Watansopeng. Her secret recipe would be safe with us.

The secret came out. "Bancuh 4 bahagian Teh Cangkir dengan 1 bahagian Teh Gunung". So we got our recipe and vouch that before we leave Watansopeng tomorrow, Teh Cangkir and Teh Gunung will be out of stock in Watansopeng. We will buy them all!

We did buy them. Sadly, my new cyclist brudder Hatim has yet to deliver the mixed portion to me. I am still waiting!

DAY 9 - FROM TANA TORAJA TO PARE-PARE

Tuesday 13th Jan 2009


When one arrives in Makale, a town in Tana Toraja, one cannot miss this impressive statue of Tana Toraja's warrior, PONGTIKU. He was regarded a hero for fighting against the Dutch in defense of Tana Toraja. An airport in Makale servicing local flights is also named after him.




We woke up to a fresh morning. Up on this highland, the weather was cool and fresh. Our hotel was situated on high ground, thus offering some views of the mountain range. It would be a relaxed day of sight-seeing. But first, to the market to buy the famous Toraja Coffee and Beras Toraja. Hatim is a coffee drinker and has acquired the taste for freshly brewed local coffee. I am happy with the 3-in-one Nescafe.





The rice is locally grown in the valleys of Tana Toraja and its cultivation contributed most to the economic activity of the locals.



There were various varieties and came in various colors. The red type looked similar to the beras nasi dagang of Kelantan.





Then there were the usual arrays of local kueh and all the usual stuff one would find in a local market.

It is quite an irony that when one is on such a holiday trip, one would make efforts to visit the local market. Back home, you drive your wife to the market and wait in the car!

Having purchased some "buah-tangan", we moved on to look for what Tana Toraja is famous for - the ancestral burial site of the locals. Again, there are numerous articles in the internet about this local belief and practise. One good reading is from this site

There were many such sites in Tana Toraja and we visited this one in Kg Londa, about 8kms after Makale.

A local tour guide was on hand for a small fee. He was handy as the short guided tour got us going into a cave and the guide had a gasoline lamp with him.

Before we entered the cave, we took this picture of these life-size effigies of the dead, up above on the cliff-face. They represented the dead, and in their life what they were in social standing is reflected in the clothes that now adorned the effigies.

Here I am, posing with one set of effigies found at a tourist outlet.

Inside the cave, we saw coffins and skeletons of the dead.

Outside the cave, there was a contingent of the local police with the press on hand. They were re-enacting the scene of three skeleton thieves. The thieves were also there, showing the police of their actual act.

After this tour, we decided it was time to move on and say good-bye to Tana Toraja. Our next destination would be to Pare-Pare, a town by the sea. As I said in my earlier posting, we had reached the furthest end of our journey and we would head back towards Makassar.

We were fortunate once again to witness another wedding. This was a local Torajan Christian wedding. It shares similarity with the Bugis wedding we saw in Sengkang 3 days earlier.

These ladies are the usherers, seated in a row waiting for the VIP guests to usher them to their seating.

The relatives however, were grouped in a bamboo shed, built specifically for the occassion.

The bridal vehicle also attracted our attention. The decoration is certainly much more elaborate than the bridal cars in Malaysia.

On the dais, I noticed the bride also carried a kris. I did not research it's significance but one can be left to wonder why. Perhaps a warning to the husband-to-be that she yields as much authority as the husband, so "dont play play"!

We arrived Pare-Pare late noon and visited the port. At this time of our visit, Pare-Pare was in the news about the ferry tragedi that killed hundreds of passengers. The ship started its journey from Pare-Pare and the rescue operations was also here.

A ferry probably quite similar to the ill-fated ferry.

Pare-Pare boasts of a deep-water berth and there were several mid-size ships at berth loading bales of sugar.

The shot below was taken by Acid, a view from an unusual angle.

Later, we had tea at one of the many stalls that were found along sea-front. Pare-Pare again can boast to have one of the longest water-fronts in Indonesia.

We tried "pisang penyet", a local delicacy. Basically it was compressed barbecued bananas in syrup. It was too sweet for us but we nevertheless cleaned the plate.

Later at night, we came for dinner at this water-front and karaokayed ourself in the open air arena, much to the delight of the locals. They had high respect for Hatim's emotional rendition of several Broery Marantika's oldies. Well done, future cycling tourer!